There is variation in every language. We change or adapt our vocabulary and style to suit a particular topic or social setting. Linguists such as Halliday, Reid et al apply the term “register” to define a subset of a language which is used for a particular purpose or social setting. Lovers and parents use goo goo, gaa gaa language when communicating with their loved ones. Attorneys use baffling legalese and charge us a fortune to interpret this for us. IT engineers use three letter acronyms (ASP, ISP, DNS) as if you know exactly what they mean.
So register or the variation (genre) in language is influenced by the context, the audience, geography, sex, age, status and many other factors. We simply adjust our words, tone, rhythm, syntax, intonation and even our non-linguistic behaviour such as our dress code and body language.
Now I invite you to recall your last wine tasting event and consider its social setting and language used in light of the “register”. Was the language appropriate for the occasion? Would you do exactly the same if the event was hosted in an office in Bangkok? Sadly when it comes to wine language, it seems like the wine register is stuck in a time warp. The wine register may no longer register in many social, geographical and ethnic contexts. I’d suggest that the current wine jargon comes generally from speakers with “a plum in their mouth”. I think, Robert Joseph alluded to such people in my first blog post.
Language evolves and today we accept certain expletives in our TV programs, words that were previously taboo or banned words. Why then is wine jargon slow to adapt? I am not advocating the use of the ubiquitous “bloody” used as an emphasis adjective and as a cover-all word to describe a “bloody good” red wine! In New Zealand, they even use the phrase “shit hot” to describe something that is really good. Hmm, may not be quite the language we want.
In sales and marketing, we accept that the customer is king and we spend considerable time, effort and money to ensure we communicate to them in a language they will understand. In Malaysia and India, McDonalds burgers offer halal and vegetarian burgers (a bit spiced up) to cater for the local palate.
In my future posts, I am going to introduce some exotic fruits and aromas so we can start using them to match local settings. What is your wine register like? Are you stuck with wine speak you were taught in your wine course? Are you prepared to change your register? If you are a producer or wine retailer, it may help your cash register to go “kaching, kaching” a lot more.
3 comments:
Very interesting premise to explore Adon. I have these comments:
1. Differences in usage of "wine language" that you allude to so far
have
more to do with variations of the English language (particularly use of
slang words) than actual differences in ways to describe wine.
2. Wine terminology always differs when people from different cultural
and culinary backgrounds describe wine (to a New Zealander, for instance,
a
Sauvignon Blanc might be gooseberry-like, but to an American the exact
same
wine is simply "herbal").
3. There has always been, and there absolutely should always be,
variations in the way wine is described because wine is not just a
natural
beverage, but it relates to people with backgrounds and generations that
differ so much from each other, that it makes no sense to try to make it
"all the same." The beauty of wine is the diversity in wine itself, and
in
the people who appreciate it.
Good luck!
Wine Language – Let’s Keep it Simple
As Jancis mentioned in response to Adon’s post earlier, it is a very timely discussion. A time when ‘unconventional’ markets are increasingly embracing the ‘wine culture’, an argument towards a simplified and adaptable wine-tasting regime carries a lot of weight. An approach which recognises that wine is for enjoying and not something to get daunted or overwhelmed about. This is exactly how I felt when I first started taking interest in wine. Although nothing was thrust upon me but I found this scholarly fuss about describing characters of some wines (read: complicated tasting notes) highly intimidating. I probably should have realized that they were not meant for novices!
One reason, and the most important one for that matter, why most wine jargons intrigued me those days is because I came from a society that simply is not used to relating a wide range of flavour profiles (and descriptors in particular) to any beverage. Ask an average Indian about the most ‘complex’ and flavourful beverage he/she ever had, the chances are that the verdict will be split between ‘Masala Chai’ (tea infused with Indian spices) and ‘Bhang’ (a heady mix of milk, nuts, spices and herbs drunk for euphoria/ecstasy)!!
On a more serious note, the modern day wine language has evolved over time and is a result of lot of research - the Aroma Wheel and Mouth feel Wheel for example. It would be audacious to think that these resources can be easily altered or substituted. The actual flavour profile of a grape variety (and hence the wine) is universal and is most likely to reflect that irrespective of terroir. A ripe Cabernet Sauvignon tastes of Blackcurrants and in my view is the perfect way to describe the grape but can we substitute this with an Indian version of blackcurrant? Well maybe, but so far I’m not aware of anything that is remotely similar. At least tasting a Cab Sauv will tell you what blackcurrant is all about! Always helps to think the glass is half full!
The need of the hour is a basic and simple but systematic approach aimed at these emerging markets. As mentioned, the primary flavour profiles of wines as they are mentioned in wine literatures are likely to firmly hold their ground until relevant substitutes are agreed upon. In the meantime, more attention should be diverted towards the heavy and technical descriptors like Malo, Rancio, Autolytic characters, Hollow mid-palate, Horsey nose, TCA taint etc. that tend to become too overbearing on novice and evolving palates. Clichés and stereotypes may have to be relinquished in favour of practicality and acceptance.
Any volunteers to bell the cat? Go Adon!
Niladri
dear Adon
i concur with you and Nildari's comments. In the Asian markets specially there is a need to introduce a new and familiar grammar and dictionary which makes sense to the new age wine drinkers.
The markets are growing but new consumers find the jargon intimidating amongst the old world wine enthusiasts who sell the language more than the wine. Time we took the bull by the horns to Asian Vineyards and make the masala chai drinkers discover palate patterns of wines in their language
I am game..
cheers
nanni
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